MPe functions

The MPe ebike computer has many of useful and practical functions. There are many of them, so we decided to categorize them and describe them in more detail. We invite you to the article and short videos 😎.

  • Not all motor controllers offer pedaling assistance function. The ones that have it are usually large and/or have a low power (up to 2500 W, e.g. the popular KT series controllers). The MPe will handle drivers up to 18000 W such as Sabvoton, Kelly Controller, and others. As standard, these more advanced and powerful conttrollers are not ment to be used with bicycles, so they do not have this function. Thanks MPe yes – they can have it.
  • Possibility to set 5 levels of assistance, which can be freely configured and individually adjusted. For example: it is possible to set the reaction speed to turning the crank, e.g. gently when driving with someone, or more rapidly in the off-road, e.g. in a forest.
  • The assistance is smooth, not only when starting off, but also while driving.
  • Possibility to add pedaling support based on both the cadence sensor („resting” ride) and the pedal torque sensor (cycling sensations: press harder = ride faster, improve fitness, save battery, ride better with someone). You can read more about the torque sensor: HERE.
MPe functions - pedaling assist
MPe functions - pedaling assist
  • It takes 2 seconds to switch between locked and unlocked modes.
  • In other controllers there is no such function at all or additional switches have to be added.
  • Rescue in the event of control. Avoiding a ticket (we know that we have already saved many customers’ wallets).
  • In the limited power mode, the throttle lever does not work (useful during inspections).
  • More security abroad in the event of an inspection.
  • You can adjust the power value according to different countries.
  • In the city, it is safer to move between people for yourself and those around you.
  • Protecting yourself and another person, for example, by letting someone a ride on our bike with limited power. The vehicle will turn on in safe mode without lifting the front wheel when excess throttle is given.
MPe functions - limiting power
MPe functions - limiting power
  • As many as 32% of respondents (over 130 people) found this function very useful.
  • High accuracy: estimated range value based on real Wh consumed from the battery.
  • Safety while driving and mental comfort (without bottoming out battery).
  • In practice, this means that you can speed up when you know you are close to end of tour and have a lot of battery, or slow down when you can see that the battery may not be enough. The display shows the distance lengthen or shorten depending on riding dynamics and terrain change.
  • After one year of using the battery (battery wear), you can reduce this value and have a real e-bike range on an ongoing basis.
MPe functions - e-bike range
MPe functions - e-bike range
  • 5 assist levels of the throttle (you can set the mode, e.g. only on the throttle, without pedal assist).
  • Adjustable softstarter: the power remains the same, but increases more slowly.
  • Keeping in mind the safety of ourselves and other vehicle users, we can limit the power of the electric bike on certain assist levels. This will keep the wheels on the ground. This feature will be useful in more crowded places, such as in the city.
  • The throttle has always advantage over the PAS. It can help you during start off, for example at cross roads.
  • You can disable the throttle by enstering the locked mode (in case of road control).
  • Useful for driving on more difficult terrain.
  • Thanks to the throttle, we can take a break from pedaling.
MPe functions - throttle
MPe functions - throttle
  • Possibility to monitor 2 temperatures, e.g. motor, controller, battery.
  • Safety and mental comfort against damage to electrical components.
  • Avoiding financial loss.
  • Other controllers only read the temperature, e.g. the popular KT sine, but they do not cut off the drive when the temperature threshold is exceeded. In turn, for the Sabvoton or Kelly Controller drivers we have a protection, but we cannot see the reading (we do not have a display).
  • The MPe computer automatically turns on the drive when the component has cooled down.
  • Readability of temperature values on the MaxiColor 850C display (can be hidden).
MPe functions - thermal protection
MPe functions - thermal protection
  • A unique MPe function that other solutions do not have or have limitted: the computer maintains the set speed by increasing and decreasing the set power, i.e. going uphill, the speed does not slow down.
  • Cruise control works even in vector / FOC controllers such as the Sabvoton.
  • The set speed can be slowed down or accelerated.
  • Convenience: thumb and butt are resting.
  • Useful when pushing the vehicle uphill.
  • Security. Cruise control can be disengaged in various ways (by pressing any button on the remote control, pressing the brake, etc.).
  • Smooth operation.
  • It works up to a speed of 40 km/h.
MPe functions - cruise control
MPe functions - cruise control
  • A good solution if we do not want to have a display on the handlebar.
  • If we lack space for the display on the handlebar (you can only add buttons and not have a display on the handlebar, and can control the MPe computer).
  • Good looking graphics, graph and numbers.
  • You can improve the application yourself. Details available HERE.
  • In financial terms, this is the most advantageous MPe version in our store. You can buy additional display at any time.
  • Installing the application is simple and detailed on our website. Details available: HERE.
MPe functions - smartphone app
MPe functions - smartphone app


If you have any questions about MPe, CONTACT US.

MPe functions - YouTube playlist
MPe functions - YouTube playlist

Torque sensor BB and MPe



For MPe computer it’s possible to add a pedalling force sensor (bottom bracket with torque sensor). Thanks to this, we can add pedaling assistance to each HUB motor and to each controller, based on the currently applied power by the cyclist.

This is the only solution that was created in Europe, which allows to add such functionality to electric bicycles of the “do it yourself” type 🙂.

In this article you will find (SHORTCUTS – by clicking on a particular chapter, you will go directly to a given part):

5 invaluable possibilities

of the torque sensor in combination with MPe

Anyone who has had the opportunity to ride with a bottom bracket with torque sensor knows how amazing and fun it can be.

How does the torque sensor work with the MPe computer?
MPe will sense the speed of rotation of the cranks and the torque on the pedals/cranks as the cyclist’s power and converts them into a correspondingly increased (adjustable) power of the electric drive.

  1. Real cycling sensations. The feeling of riding is more like riding a bicycle.
  2. Individual selection of assist level power (it is adjustable) depends on the cyclist. It is the cyclist who uses his pedaling power to determine the power of the assistance, and thus the speed of the vehicle. There is no effect, as in a regular (cadence only) support, that the bike is chasing a certain speed.
  3. Better control over the speed of the bicycle. The bike will never go faster than we can pedal.
  4. The ability to start from standstill, without a throttle, just by pressing the pedal.
  5. Better health and fitness. Thanks to the torque sensor, we mobilize the body to exercise. Of course, we ourselves decide how much this fatigue should be. It happens through the force put into pedaling and the selection of the appropriate power assist level. The effort can vary from very intense to minimal.

NOTE: with the bottom bracket with torque sensor, you can also use the cadence sensor only (PAS – Pedal Assistant Sensor). In a bicycle, we therefore have two types of assistance solution. The eRider T9 bottom bracket itself has a cadence sensor with 18 magnets, you do not need to add it. In the MPe system, you can set several assist levels for the torque sensor, and leave a few using only the cadence sensor. The user has the freedom of choice and the ability to change the method of assistance while riding.

Our experience and feelings

with a human power based support

1. We had the opportunity to test, the eRider T9 bottom bracket with torque sensor, compatible with the MPe computer, at the e-bike’s fan expo in Żyrardów on the Kuba’s bike from the Elekrto Rider channel (BLDC 36v48v 250w 6A controller).

2. The torque sensor can be found mainly in factory bikes with a mid drive. We have already had the opportunity to test this type of equipment: SHIMANO STEPS E7000 TEST RIDE – KELLYS THEOS 50

3. Another alternative comes here with the popular TSDZ2 drive. After uploading the open firmware, the sensations on this support with a torque sensor are very similar to those from factory bikes.

Ana from and mid-drive TSDZ2
Ana from and mid-drive TSDZ2

What to do to be able to add

the torque sensor to the electric bike?

1. Have a wheel motor (HUB)
2. Have an MPe V6 computer

Case of the main module the MPeV6 computer
Main module - MPe V6
MPe V5 computer case
Archive main module - MPe V5

For those who have the MPe V5 motherboard version, it will also be possible to add a torque sensor. You will need to add an extra 12V power supply. Of course, in our store you can buy the V6 motherboard separately. 


  • Mainboards in our store are now available with the latest firmware (from version v6.008) working with the torque sensor BB.
  • If you are just buying an MPe computer (after December 6, 2020), you already have screw connectors/terminals for the torque sensor BB on MPe motherboard. All you need to do is connect to them with cables from the torque sensor (you will receive the cable together with the torqe sensor bottom bracket). Motherboard version: from to V6.5
MPeV6 (V6.5) motherboard version
MPeV6 (V6.5) motherboard version
  • However, if you bought an MPe computer (before December 6, 2020), you need to solder yourself to the MPe motherboard with wires. You can do it yourself (details below). Motherboard version: up to V6.4 inclusive

3. If you have firmware version from v6.007 and lower, please update it to the latest version, starting with v6.008 (version already available on our blog: HERE). To do this, it is necessary to have a programmer, which can be purchased in our store:

Basic programmer for updating the firmware
Basic programmer
Universal programmer will work for MaxiColor 850C display
Universal programmer

How to reprogram your firmware to the latest version is described here:

4. Purchase a bottom bracket with torque sensor – eRider T9. At the moment, the MPe computer will only work with this type of BB. This BB is for a standard BSA-threaded version. You can buy them in different widths, usually 68mm or 73mm. There are also other widths: 80, 83, 100 and 120mm.


Its advantage is to lead the cable in such a way that you do not need to drill a hole in the bicycle frame. Its second very important advantage is the fact that it measures the torque on both cranks, and not only on the left, like other bottom brackets. The third very important feature is the fact that the bottom bracket has an integrated cadence sensor with 18 magnets – so it is very accurate.

Select here a 4-claw chain adaptor, with BCD (pitch diameter for chainring mounting holes) 104mm. The chainrings should be unscrewed from the old cranks and screwed to the chain adaptor sold with the sensor. There are two 4 and 5 claw adaptors to choose from. You should choose these 4 claw chain adaptor with the 104mm BCD. (Alternatively, the chainrings and screws can also be purchased separately). For this 4 claw adaptor, 1 – 3 chainrings can be attached (individually, depending on the rider’s needs).

Torque sensor for MPe computer - eRider T9
Torque sensor BB for MPe computer - eRider T9

5. Purchase other cranks with square taper where the right crank is without chainrings, e.g. from the SHIMANO STEPS E6000TSDZ2 or BAFANG drive. (In my opinion, the Bafang cranks are less ergonomic, because they are very straight and the shoe hooks onto the crank around the ankle. Shimano cranks have very good ergonomics, according to customers, they are solid and available on market for reasonable price.). You can also use the cranks of an ordinary bicycle, but the right crank has to be cut off (e.g. with an angle grinder) the attachment of the chainrings. Also cranks from CYC X1 PRO gen 2 motor with torque sensor will fit.

Cranks: Shimano Steps E6000, Bafang, TSDZ2 and MTB for torque sensor + MPe computer
Cranks: Shimano Steps E6000, Bafang, TSDZ2 and MTB for torque sensor + MPe computer

6. Solder the wire from the sensor to the soldering pads of the MPeV6 motherboard. 

NOTE for motherboard version up to V6.4 inclusive: applies to MPe computers purchased before December 6, 2020 (current MPe motherboards have screw connectors/terminals, and you only need to plug into them). To do this, disconnect all cables and remove the motherboard from the housing.

These pads are marked as:
• 12V – power supply [mostly red wire]
• GND – ground [usually black wire]
• PAS – cadence / crank speed signal [usually green wire]
• A3 – pressure / torque signal [usually white wire]

Places where the wires from the torque sensor should be soldered
Places where the wires from the torque sensor should be soldered
Soldered wires from the torque sensor in the MPeV6 main board
Soldered wires from the torque sensor in the MPeV6 main board

FAQ - frequently asked questions

We also recommend reading the article with frequently asked questions:

Episode with technical details

Subtitles in English (enable the option in the settings)

Watch the episode
how to connect the sensor to the MPeV6 motherboard

Subtitles in English (enable the option in the settings)

In this episode, I cover how to connect to the MPeV6 motherboard for these two versions:

  • from V6.5 (available for sale from December 2020)
  • up to version V6.4 inclusive (available for sale until December 2020)

Components purchase sources

1. ERider T9 bottom bracket with torque and cadence sensor:

2. Purchase of cranks where the right crank has no chainrings, e.g. from TSDZ2.

The offer comes from Aliexpress, from which we also bought sensors and are currently testing them. We would also like to point out here that by choosing to purchase from the above source, you have the option of supporting us financially (the so-called affiliate link). You don’t lose a single penny on it, but we get a modest penny, for example for running this blog 😊👍.

More details soon.

Stay tuned 😊:

FB group e-BIKEL-owcy technically about electric vehicles

FB group „e-BIKEL-owcy"

In the Facebook group we exchange experiences and comments on electric vehicles

Motor controller models + MPe

What motor controllers work with the MPe computer?

One of the biggest advantages of the MPe computer is the fact that the MPe system works with all controllers available on the market. We include here::

  • sinusoidal controllers
  • vector controllers
  • block controllers

Conditions that must be taken into account

  • throttle input (0.8-4.2V)
  • the maximum measured current by MPe is 200A
  • supported battery voltage 30-92V (temporarily max. 100V)

List of controllers

cooperating with the MPe computer

To be sure that your controller will work with the MPe computer, we have prepared a list with specific driver models.

MPe+ motor controller models

The above drivers are just an example of the most common controllers on our market. At 99%, if the controller has a throttle input and it is not on this list, it should also work with the MPe computer.

If this list does not include the controller you are interested in and you have doubts about MPe compatibility, please WRITE TO US or leave a comment below under the article. We will check it and contact you.

Stay tuned 😎:

FB group e-BIKEL-owcy technically about electric vehicles

Group e-BIKEL-owcy

In the Facebook group we exchange experiences and comments on electric vehicles

MPe and FAQ


- frequently asked questions and answers

In this article you will find the answers to the most frequently asked questions that arise:

  • when purchasing the MPe kit
  • when installing the MPe system in the vehicle
  • and also during its use.

We have collected them all in one place, so as to satisfy your curiosity, broaden your knowledge of the product and, above all, help you solve the problem you have encountered.

To make it easier for you to find the topic you are looking for, we have divided the questions into several sections (clicking on a given section will take you directly to it).

Column with questions for MPe computer

Will the MPe fit my vehicle?

The MPe computer is designed mainly to vehicles built from scratch and fits all controllers that have a thumb throttle input, and their supply voltage is less than 100V. If you are in doubt as to whether the MPe will fit your vehicle, you can contact us using the contact details. We always try to help our clients.

Unfortunately not. MPe is not designed to closed systems and central drives, which are found in factory e-bikes. MPe is not used to unlock the drive from the factory limits.

Connection to the vehicle and first run

Very important thing: if this is your first e-bike and you are just connecting components to the vehicle, first start and check if the vehicle is fully functional (battery, controller, motor) before connecting the MPe. Then refer to the sections the user manual, „Before Connecting”, „Connecting to the Vehicle” and „First run of the device”. Only in the next step, you can connect the MPe to the vehicle (then it is simply easier to eliminate the possible source of error).

Yes. You can use the ignition switch output with battery voltage and connect this battery voltage from after the ignition switch both to the controller and to MPe on connector No. 1. Then nothing is connected to connector No. 2 in MPe.

It is only important not to confuse the battery poles – positive and negative. It does not matter in which direction of the current flow we connect the current sensor, as it is bidirectional. If, after connecting, it turns out that the current read from MPe has a negative sign, it is enough to reverse the direction of the current reading in the configuration (parameter 6 – measurement direction). The current indicated by MPe while driving while the battery power is being drawn must have a positive value.

Connect the cable that comes out of the motor from the temperature sensor to connector No. 32. At the same time, we must set the „D” switch (on the main board) to the ON position, ie turned on. At this point, in the configuration, we can choose the type of sensor, depending on what is installed. The type of sensor T1 is selected in parameter No. 41.

Yes, of course. Normally we connect three wires of the thumb throttle to the controller, because the controller supplies power to the throttle. Two of the three wires are for power and the third is for the signal. When we use MPe, the throttle is powered from the MPe motherboard, and only a signal is sent to the controller, so the power cables are not used.

Unfortunately, this is not possible. MPe works with dedicated current sensors, operating on the Hall effect principle, where the output is by default half of the supply voltage (with increasing current consumption, the voltage increases, and with a decrease or negative value, the voltage decreases linearly with a given resolution).

Unfortunately, you cannot connect the bike’s lighting, as this 12V output is provided to power the MaxiColor 850C display. It also has a very low current efficiency, so it cannot bear the load generated by the bicycle’s lighting.

Most likely, the first run procedure was not completed in accordance with the operating manual. Such symptoms occur when, for example, the current reading generates a negative current, i.e. the direction of the current sensor operation is incorrect (parameter 6). Also, similar symptoms are the result of incorrectly set throttle voltages (parameters 13-18), incorrect low voltage cut-off threshold for discharged battery (parameter No. 3) or incorrect temperature reading that goes beyond the cut-off range of the motor. Follow the instructions in the „First run” section of this user manual.

The Charge Indicator bases its operation on the settings we have introduced, which are the battery capacity in ampere hours [Ah] and watt hours [Wh], low voltage cut-off setting and full battery voltage setting. These are the first four configuration parameters that must be properly set. During the first installation, even after these parameters are set, there may be a discrepancy between the battery charge level indication and the actual battery charge level. This is normal and it will self-adjust when we first charge the battery to 100% and the MPe detects it.
We can also refresh it manually.
For the MiniOled display: on screen 4, where we have labels such as IM, WU, WK and AU, hold the bottom button for 2 seconds, then the AU and WU values ​​will update to approximately the current battery level.
For MaxiColor 850C display: enter the statistics screen, holding the plus and minus simultaneously, and then, when we are on this statistics screen, hold the power on switch and plus simoultaneusly for 2 seconds, the battery discharge values ​​will refresh.

Pedal Assist System (PAS) operation

Yes, the MPe computer allows you to add a PAS sensor for all controllers available on the market that have an input for the thumb throttle. Even for those drivers that do not allow adding PAS sensor by default.

Assistance using only the cadence sensor is less demanding for the rider. By setting a sufficiently
high level of support, you can ride a bike with practically no effort. When the assist is based on the
pedal pressure sensor, we always have to put even a minimal amount of force into pedaling.

By using only the cadence sensor, the bike drive aims to achieve a specific speed and power assigned
to a given assist level. When the system detects the rotation of the cranks, the drive engages and
supports us even when the chain is not under tension. All we have to do is turn the crank “in the air”
without any clear pressure on the pedals. When following someone, it is difficult to maintain the
desired speed and either we approach the cyclist in front of us or we are left behind. There are often
situations in which we have to use the brake, increase or decrease the assistance level, or we have to
stop pedaling altogether. Also, the bike is often ahead of our current gear ratio and we spin our legs
“in the air”.

By using a torque sensor in combination with a cadence sensor, we can measure the cyclist’s power.
This allows the system to better understand the rider’s intentions. When the cyclist pedals harder and
faster, the bicycle’s drive also supports with more power. As the effort put into pedaling decreases,
the drive will also reduce the power of the assist. Thanks to this, by changing the way of pedaling,
we influence the behavior of the drive. Riding a bicycle becomes more natural, very similar to riding
a regular, non-electric bicycle – we just get tired less. When following someone, we have no problem
with adjusting the speed. If we approach the rider’s in front of us wheel dangerously, we simply
weaken the intensity of our pedaling and slow down. When our companion starts to accelerate and
move away, it is enough that we start pedaling harder and we already have the same speed as our
rider in front of us. There will never be a situation where the bike will overtake our pedaling. We
always have to press the pedals even slightly. When there is no pressure on the pedals, the power of
the rider and drive will drop to zero and the bike will not accelerate further.

The cadence sensor (PAS sensor) can be any, three-wire, 5V power supply. We recommend using a sensor with at least 12 magnets or more. Fewer magnets will result, for example, in a slower activation of the PAS or a later deactivation of the PAS when you stop pedaling.
We recommend that you only use sensors that do not work when cranking backwards. Sensors that also work when turning the cranks backwards are dangerous (when we pull reverse the bike, the cranks turn and the MPe can detect this movement as an impulse to activate the PAS assist system and the bike will move forward). Whether the sensor works while turning the cranks backwards depends only on the type of sensor used – please ask your dealer.

The recommended torque sensor is eRider T9. Its advantage is to lead the cable in such a way that
you do not need to drill a hole in the bicycle frame. Its second very important advantage is the fact
that it measures the torque on both cranks, and not only on the left, like other BB’s. The third very
important feature is the fact that the bottom bracket has an integrated cadence sensor with 18
magnets – so it is very accurate.Toggle Content

No, there is no such need. The eRider T9 bottom bracket has a built-in cadence sensor. In the MPe
system, you can set several levels of support for the torque sensor, and leave a few using only the
cadence sensor. The user has the freedom of choice and the ability to change the method of
assistance while driving.

It has to do with improperly set input voltage of the thumb throttle TIN MIN. Most likely, it is set too low and the MPe believes that the thumb throttle is minimally twisted all the time and therefore does not activate PAS assist. This is set in parameter No. 15, which defaults to 90. This value should be rounded up to the nearest ten and greater than the minimum thumb throttle incoming voltage to MPe that can be read on the display.

For example: if the minimum thumb throttle voltage input to the MPe (read on the MPe display) is 91, then parameter No. 14 should be set to 100 (rounded up to the nearest ten).

This is due to an incorrectly (too high) set speed limit option for PAS BOOST activation (pedaling assistance, parameters No. 115-119). This speed must be set so as to be below continuous speed which can be maintained in steady normal driving. Usually it is about 8-10 km/h less than the general speed limit for a given assist level (parameters 80-84).

For example: When we have a general speed limit of 30 km/h for the assist level 4, the bike will accelerate with a steady ride to approx. 27 km/h, because from 25 km/h MPe starts to reduce the power so as not to exceed the set 30 km/h. Then we drive steadily about 27 km/h. This speed is maintained because the power-speed balance has been reached. Therefore, the speed limit of the PAS BOOST gain must be set below this value, e.g. up to 22 k /h (So 8 km / h less than the general speed limit for this assist level). The point is that this value should be below the speed that we are able to maintain during normal, steady and long driving.

In the locked mode, the power and speed of a given level of assistance does not change if is lower than that set for the locked mode (default 25km/h 250W). If the unlocked level of assistance is set above the locked values, then after activating the locked mode, the power and speed values of the given level of assistance will be overwritten / reduced with those for the locked mode. Therefore, if we have several levels of assistance set above the value of the locked mode, then after activating the locked mode, these levels will have the same limits (such as for the locked mode). Then, in locked mode, the change of assist level will not translate into a change in the amount of assistance power.

The default MPe settings should fit most vehicles. There may be times that the settings will have to be tuned to your vehicle. The most common cause of power fluctuations during support are incorrectly set PID coefficients (parameters No. 50 to 61). The parameters of the speed of power ramp up (parameters No. 100 to 104) also have a large influence on the unwanted power waving.

Thumb throttle

First of all, follow all the instructions in the “First run of the device” section and configure the list of basic parameters the user manual. The MPe computer must be in unlocked mode to use the thumb throttle operation. By default, the MPe starts in locked mode, in which the thumb throttle is inoperative and power is limited to that set for locked mode.

If this happens with the wheel in the air it is normal. The current sensor protection works, which does not measure the current high enough for the currently twist of thumb throttle. This functionality can be turned off in parameter 8.
If this situation also occurs during normal driving, most likely the thumb throttle voltage is wrongly set (configuration parameters 13 to 18). First, set the input parameters of the thumb throttle correctly (parameters 15 and 16). To do this properly, follow the recommendations in the section “Description of MPeV6 computer functions and their configuration” – “Throttle operation settings” the user manual. Next, set parameters 13 and 14. Parameter No. 14 (TOT_MAX) should be set as high as possible, before the point in which controller cuts off the drive.

For example: we set the value to 350, we twist the thumb throttle to 100% and the controller does not cut off the drive, it is ok. We give the value to 400, we twist the thumb throttle to 100% and the controller cuts it off, which means that there is too much voltage at the output to the controller. In this case, this value should be reduced.

The voltage of the thumb throttle output from the MPe is set as most controllers on the market expect, ie up to 3.5V. For some controllers, eg Sabvoton, this value can be changed, because these controllers also have their voltage regulation in the setup program. 

The reference voltage is not always equal to the actual voltage coming from MPe.

For example: not always TOT MAX voltage set to 350 wil result in 3.5V at output. It depends on the type of controller and installation. The TOT MAX parameters should be set as high as possible, just until the controller is still working normally. When we set TOT MAX too high, the controller will read it as a damaged thumb throttle and cut off the drive.

There is no such possibility and it is a deliberate procedure. The throttle lever works only for the unlocked mode.

Regenerative braking

MPe does not interfere with the operation of the regenerative braking which is controlled by the controller. In order to activate regenerative braking, the controller must be informed that the brake is applied. Therefore, we connect the brake sensor located in the brake handle to both the MPe and the controller. At this point, when we press the brake handle, the controller and MPe will cut off the drive, and the controller will activate regenerative braking (if it has such a function and it is correctly set).

Yes, the MPe computer does not interfere with the operation of regenerative braking managed by the controller. Of course, you can connect a regenerative brake thumb throttle to the controller.

There is, however, an inconvenience. Due to the fact that the brake thumb throttle is not connected to the MPe, the MPe will not see that the brake thumb throttle is applied and that we want to brake when using the regenerative brake thumb throttle.
This situation may occur: the rider pedals all the time, uses the regenerative brake thumb throttle, the controller cuts off the drive. MPe will read this as a drop in power, and because we are pedaling all the time, MPe will want to increase this power to get to what is possible and should be given. This increases the throttle signal sent to the controller. When the driver releases the regenerative brake thumb throttle, there may be a jerk (for a split second), felt by the driver. The only way to prevent this is to add a magnetic sensor that will react to the twist of the brake thumb throttle. There is a magnet in the thumb throttle, which will activate the brake sensor. The sensor should be placed near the regenerative braking throttle. When we twist the thumb throttle, the magnet will move and activate the brake sensor attached to the throttle and will give a signal to MPe that the brake is active. The position of the brake sensor glued to the brake throttle should be selected experimentally so that the sensor is activated at the minimum twist of the brake thumb throttle.

This delay is due to the fact that the current reading during regenerative braking becomes negative. MPe has a protection against throttle output when the current is negative. This is to prevent malfunction of the PAS assist system. This value of negative current, at which the drive is cut off, can be defined with parameter No. 9. By default, it is set to -2A. When we have a correctly configured MPe and only this functionality annoys us, we can increase the value from these -2A, to e.g. 10A or 15A. Then, the thumb throttle after braking will not be delayed.

MiniOled display

Enter the statistics screen (by pressing two buttons at a time) and on the screen 2 (where we have the TR value – this is the parameter) hold the bottom button on the display for 2 seconds. Together with the daily distance, all other memorized values will be reset, e.g. maximum speed, average speed, running time, maximum power, maximum current.

Yes, both the display and the buttons on it are waterproof.

MaxiColor 850C display

Enter the statistics screen (on the remote control, hold 2 buttons at once plus (+) and minus (-) for one second), and then hold 2 buttons at once for 2 seconds: minus (-) and switch (o). Together with the daily distance, all other memorized values ​​will be reset, e.g. maximum speed, average speed, running time, maximum power, maximum current.

Unfortunately, this is not possible. The MaxiColor 850C display turns on only with the remote control on the handlebar, which is dedicated to this display.

Yes, both the display and the buttons on it are waterproof.
Degree of protection: IP65 – the first digit of the text means protection against access to hazardous parts by a wire and full dustproof protection, the second digit – protection against a stream of water with an intensity of 12.5 l/min poured on the housing from each side.

Other questions

There is actually the same current sensor in each PowerPCB module that can measure up to 200A. These modules differ from each other in terms of connectors and wires that go to MPe.

In the 90A version we have XT90 connectors. The name itself indicates that they can handle a maximum of 90A. Due to the fact that in this version of the 90A we use both paths of the XT90 connector as a positive and negative poles separately, we can thus transfer the battery supply voltage to the motherboard module.

However, in the 180A version we also have XT90 connectors, but here it is connected differently, because both plug paths are used as a positive pole, i.e. the negative pole of the battery does not go through the PowerPCB 180A module. Therefore, at the output wires, there are no positive and negative poles for the battery on thin wires. Both poles of the battery need to be connected to the motherboard on their own, creating a separate installation for them.

On the PowerPCB 200A, the wires are soldered directly to the outputs of the current sensor. They are led out and have no connectors. Here, the user himself decides which connectors to use and how to solder them to the wires. Due to the fact that here, as in the PowerPCB 90A, we have both the positive and negative poles of the battery soldered, also at the output of this module, on the thin wires that go to the motherboard contain the positive and negative poles of the battery to power the motherboard.

To sum up: PowerPCB 90A, 180A and 200A have the same current sensor. They differ in terms of connectors and the fact that there is battery voltage (positive and negative pole) on thin wires at the output of PowerPCB 90A and 200A, and there is no battery voltage at the output of PowerPCB 180A on thin wires.

There is no negative pole in the 180A module, as both plug paths are used for the battery positive pole. Due to the fact that both paths of the XT90 connector are used as a positive pole, the current carrying capacity of the 90A plug becomes 180A, i.e. we double the load capacity of the connector, but lose one pole of the battery. Due to the fact that we do not connect the negative pole to the Power PCB 180A, there is no battery voltage on the output, on the thin wires, which is connected to the MPe motherboard. Accordingly, the installer has to ensure that the positive and negative poles of the battery are connected to the motherboard to power it.

If you are at the purchasing stage, see the previous question: what are the differences between 90A 180A and 200A. You will notice that they aren’t really that much different. First of all, you need to decide which version to buy for the installation you intend to build, the cables and plugs you will have in your installation. If you plan to modify your e-bike in the future, it is best if you choose the 200A option and make the connectors as you need.

If, however, you already own a PowerPCB 90A and you want to increase the power of the vehicle, it is enough to change the PowerPCB 90A module to a more powerful one, e.g. 180A or 200A. If you also have great manual skills, you can solder thick wires to the currently owned board. This way you will increase its current carrying capacity, because the only limitation here is the connector, which has the current carrying capacity of 90A.

For the MPe system, the PAS assist functions and cruise control base their operation on reading the current drawn from the battery. When the wheel is raised, the power consumption is negligible compared to normal driving. Therefore, it is impossible for the PAS and cruise control to function properly in service conditions with the drive wheel raised. These functions should be tested and fine-tuned during normal driving.

In order for MPe to correctly show the remaining distance to be ridden, it must have actual driving data. If it is a fresh installation or just after resetting the counter, this value is perfectly normal. It will update as the vehicle begins to move under normal road conditions.

Yes you can, but in MPe there is no output for two separate controllers. This means that we will not be able to define a different power for motor 1 and a different one for motor 2. However, you can connect two motors in parallel, simultaneously controlled by one thumb throttle with one signal. This solution can be done and there will be no problem with it. You then need two motor controllers for each motor individually. Both will be connected after the MPe measuring module, and the MPe will show the total power drawn from the battery by both controllers. This solution is possible.

You can use two different. Just one will take more energy than the other and give different power. Alternatively, you can use the wiring from the controllers and install various switches of their operating modes, or turn one off completely.

Technical support

If you have not found any information on your doubts in this article, please contact us directly via the contact form. You can also leave a comment at the bottom of this article. Perhaps you will help other people who already have an MPe computer or are planning to buy one. We will certainly try to help and advise you.

We also encourage you to follow us on social media and join our e-BIKEL group on Facebook. Here you can also find a lot of interesting information about electric vehicles and the MPe wattmeter itself.

Stay tuned 😎

FB group e-BIKEL-owcy technically about electric vehicles

FB group „e-BIKEL-owcy"

In the Facebook group we exchange experiences and comments on electric vehicles

Construction cost of e-bike with MPe

How much does it cost to build an electric bike?

The cost range of building an electric bike is really wide. Prices can fluctuate here, even from 144 Euro / 160$ to over 7300 Euro / 8000 $.

In this article, you will find out the cost we incurred to build our „Minion” e-bike.

Price of e-bike with MPe computer

We will show here one option for building an electric bike, taking into account the MPe computer set with  display:

  • MPe computer with large MaxiColor 850C display
Construction cost of e-bike with MPe computer and MaxiColor 850C display
Construction cost of e-bike with MPe computer and MaxiColor 850C display

Performance and possibility

Now it’s time to take a look at what our e-bike “can”:

  • Vehicle weight 28.5 kg. This is a pretty low result for an electric bike.
  • The 16S7P battery (1100Wh, LGMJ1 cells) will allow you to travel approx. 70 – 100 km (smooth ride up to max. 30 km / h, relatively flat terrain).
  • Top speed: 54 km/h.
  • Acceleration 0-40 km/h: 5.5s (test performed on the GT 1500, 45A controller)
  • Maximum power (indications from MPe computer): 2400W
  • Quiet operation of the Sabvoton Mini SVMC072045 45A controller. Initially, we had a GT 1500 45A square wave controller for a long time, which is much cheaper than the Sabvoton. However, the GT 1500 has several drawbacks. You can read about why the decision to change the controller was made. Read: HERE
  • The construction of the electronics box cost a lot of nerves, not to mention time. Read: HERE
  • The Kellys Madman 50 L, 21 frame is in our opinion quite large, even at a height of 180 cm. In the field, sometimes a slightly smaller frame (M, 19 ′) would be “more comfortable”.
  • Wheel / tire size: 27.5 ″ / 2.2
  • This bike certainly lacks full suspension. Although the NCX suspension seatpost is much more comfortable to ride than without it. We recommend this solution for every bicycle without rear suspension. It perfectly absorbs bumps on the road (by buying from the source below you support our business without losing any penny – the so-called affiliate link).

Extra possibilities for an electric bike -

MPe computer

Above you can see the cost of converting it into an electric bike of this class. The Minion is additionally equipped with an MPe computer, which gives it many unique possibilities. Today we CANNOT IMAGINE driving without this MPe computer.

Features of the MPe computer give us a number of capabilities
Lots of possibilities for an electric bike - MPe computer

Computer MPe price

in relation to the total cost of building an e-bike

Building an electric bike can bring great satisfaction. Especially when the bike starts to work and assist us. It is also often not a small expense, but do you have to have everything at once? We often buy, e.g. a controller, frame, battery pack, and then replace it with another, stronger, bigger, better one. We want more watts, more power, more adrenaline. And changes are associated with further expenses. And so it goes on:

we put aside money 🐷(new ideas)

collect savings 💲

and finally we make a PURCHASE and we have a PRIZE 🚲

And it is beautiful because there are more opportunities to make our dreams come true. And after all, riding an electric bike is a beautiful passion, but also a hobby that allows you to build a great vehicle.


If you want to show yourself how much it cost you to build an electric bike, write about it in the comment at the bottom of the article. We are curious.

And stay up to date 😎:

FB group e-BIKEL-owcy technically about electric vehicles

FB group „e-BIKEL-owcy"

In the Facebook group we exchange experiences and comments on electric vehicles