Start by watching the episode about conversion on our YT channel 🙂:
WHY THIS MOTOR?
- I recommend this motor to DIY enthusiasts who build a bike up to 1500W.
- This motor is cheap to get on the aftermarket because people import bikes with these systems as damaged, convert them to regular bikes and sell wheels as unchecked or damaged. It is very possible that they are actually damaged, but it does not bother us at all!
- Most often in these systems controllers that are inside the engine break down, and we throw this controller away!
- The engine is light (about 4.5kg), gearless (which makes it maintenance-free),
- has hall sensors (better start from zero than sensorless).
- Looks good and pushes well up to 1500W 🙂.
WHAT'S MODIFICATION ALL ABOUT?
We convert this motor to an external controller and add thermal protection against overheating, and replace the bearings with new ones.
Such a converted motor can be connected to any BLDC motor controller / controller that supports hall sensors (most of it has). The power in electric bikes is maintained mainly by the controller, so we are not limited only to statutory 250W.
This engine will pull up to 1500W without damage. It’s not recommended to push this motor beyond 1500W becouse it has relatively small magnets and coils. It means that it will not produce much more more torque and will heat.
WHAT WILL WE NEED?
Fortunately this list is not long:
Heat Gun / burner
LIYCY cable 8×0.25mm2 (1.5mb)
1.5mm2 wire with silicone insulation (3×1.5mb)
polyester cable braid
bearings 6003 with C3 clearance 2 pcs
thermal protection 145 degrees C
LM35 temperature sensor
heat conducting glue above 200 ° C
car spray black semi-matte (for rims, bumpers etc.)
sockets / bushes for knocking out and driving in of bearings
water spray, cloth
Good luck 🙂!
Stay tuned 🙂: